Parade Day in St. Thomas

It's Adult Parade day and the last official day of Carnival. Remember, this is the event that can last 9-10 hours. But, that's what makes it so much fun.

The parade also marks the end of Carnival. Oh, there'll be another couple of activities, like the fireworks display, this year dedicated to President Barack Obama, but for the most part, when the parade is over, carnival is over for another year.

The images of carnival:

Happy Carnival!

A J'ouvert Story

As I'm writing this, J'ouvert (pronounced J'ou-vay) warm-up is in progress in St. Thomas. J'ouvert, a pre-dawn dance through the streets of Charlotte Amalie will begin at 4:00 am and run approximately 5-6 hours.

There is something enchanting about thousands of people pouring into the dark, early morning streets waiting for the first flatbed truck loaded with bands, and humongous speakers to weave into view.

As the trucks roll slowly by, booming some of the best road march music imaginable, fans fall in behind and in front of the one carrying their favorite band, and begin their tramp (dance). The sun rises on thousands of people jamming with abandon to pounding Calypso music. Although it can get a little risque, it is fantastic fun.

Bands play at various locations around the island leading up to J'ouvert. The partying can actually last for a couple of days straight.

A TRUE J'OUVERT STORY
My first carnival, I was working on a pretty demanding job, but still trying to make ALL the canival events. Well, I was invited to J'ouvert by someone I had just begun dating. I was really excited because this was someone I really liked a lot, plus I was looking forward to this new carnival experience that I had heard so much about.



The day of J'ouvert, I was pretty tired, so I left work early, called my date and explained that I was running on low because of all the festivities, and wanted to change our plans. Since he had to work until early evening and I wanted to take a nap, I suggested we meet at the pre-J'ouvert warm-up later on. We agreed on the time and everything was set.


I got everything ready for later, set the alarm and laid down to take my nap.

I woke up with the sun in my eyes. It took me a few minutes to wonder why the sun was up. Then, it hit me. I jumped up like a scalded cat. I believe I actually screamed. I turned the alarm off, already understanding what had happened. I had set the clock for 9am not 9pm.

I hurriedly dialed my friend, but as expected, no answer. My heart sank. I couldn't believe this had happened. Tears of frustration rolled down my cheeks as I jumped into the outfit I had planned to wear the night before all the time wondering why he hadn't called. It was then that I noticed the bed room phone was off the hook.

Can you believe that? I couldn't.


I went looking for my friend. As I reached the downtown area, J'ouvert was winding down, and sleepy eyed revelers were passing me on their way to the beach (a tradition after the tramp), or to carnival Village.

I finally found my friend at a restaurant on waterfront. I calmly explained that I had fallen asleep, and unfortunately had set the clock wrong and overslept. I apologized profusely. I mean profusely. He was extremely quiet during my explanation. Finally, I understood why he was quiet. He hadn't believed a word I had said; he thought I had intentionally stood him up.


When I didn't show up, he had tried to call me, and after prolonged busy signals the operator had told him the telephone was apparently off the hook. He had figured something more interesting had come along and I had chosen to do that, rather than be with him. There was nothing I could say to get him to believe that I really had fallen asleep, set the clock wrong, and had knocked the phone off the hook. Actually, it was hard for me to believe, and I knew it was true. He finished his breakfast, said he'd catch me later, and walked out of the restaurant.

So, that's how I missed my first J'ouvert. A sad story, huh? I still think of it today. Needless to say, my friend and I never get together after that. No trust; on his part.

I finally accepted the crazy incident by understanding that everything happens for a reason. I may never understand what the reason was, and can only hope it was worth my missing everything ... and I do mean everything!

But, life goes on, and I never missed another J'ouvert.

Carnival Village and Calypso Competition at St. Thomas Carnival

Okay, it's the last crazy, frenzied week of Carnival, and it's pretty much none stop at this point. It's just party! Party! Party! And fun! Fun! Fun! Some of the events going on now, or coming up soon are:

CARNIVAL VILLAGE
The Village opened yesterday amid the usual fanfare. This is where everyone hangs out between events the last week of the festival. It's open almost 24 hours a day, and is the main meet-and-greet venue of the carnival experience. Everyone walks around greeting friends, digging and dancing to the music, eating, and yes, drinking.

The Village is named each year in honor of various citizens who have made serious contributions to carnival over the years. This year it's called: "Chummy's Culinary Kitchen".

The Village is built in a parking lot and is designed in a square comprised of about 20 booths that are individually decorated and named by their owners. It is all very colorful and actually, quite historical. A winner is chosen each year based on the design.

A stage is built in the center of the Village, and the best local bands, and many visiting bands play there each evening until the wee hours of the morning. People dance on the ground around the stage.

Preparing Pates

The most important function of the Village though, is the food cooked and served at each booth. This is another place to get those traditional Virgin Islands dishes that just aren't that available throughout the year. Beverages like Maube, Soursop, Guavaberry and many others are highly anticipated. And, dishes like Kallaloo (a soup), Conch (a shell fish), crab and rice, Johnny Cakes, Pates and so much more are eagerly sought.

The village is where you go to see and be seen; it's where everyone comes to mix and mingle and get their CARNIVAL ON.


LOCAL CALYPSO COMPETITION
This is when local Calypsonians compete against each other for the title of King of Carnival. It's something that's taken very seriously, as carrying the title of "king" can affect your income pretty much the way an Academy Award does; as well, it raises your prestige all over the Caribbean and everywhere calypso music is played and understood.

King Kan for Plenty dressed as a woman during Calypso Tent performance

In the weeks leading up to the competition, Calypso Tents are held around the island. In the tents local Calypsonians reveal their new songs for the carnival season. Only those considered the best will continue on to the finals at Lionel Roberts stadium the last week of carnival. These guys pull out all the stops in terms of costumes, props, back-up performers, etc.

Remember, the songs are satirical, funny, and/or ribald; and usually tell stories based on local gossip, political foibles, and achievements during the past year. This is where the audience really connects with the performers.

Calypso competition is one of the most important carnival events, primarily because it's really all about music.

Next time J'ouvert.

St. Thomas Carnival Means ... All Things Calypso

This is the second week of carnival, and it's really rolling, now. This evening, a star studded Calypso Revue will bring the biggest international (those who travel to Europe, Canada, the Caribbean and the mainland U.S. to perform), and local Calypsonians together on the VI carnival stage. This event is in my top three.

Calypso is the unofficial (official) music of the Virgin Islands, particularly during carnival. There are several different kinds of Calypso, but what you'll find in the VI, for the most part, is Soca (basically dance music with an uptempo), and old style Calypso. Not that there aren't other forms of music, like Reggae and others.

Old style Calypso is what made the genre famous and has been around since slaves first arrived on the island's shores. The story told in the song is the most important feature of the music. The lyrics can be stingingly satirical, laugh-out-loud funny, or down-right bawdy.

Calypsonians are poets, singers and entertainers. They mostly write their own material, and are known for their entertaining presentations. The best of the best can sing extemporaneously (compose and sing songs on the spot), and are masters at double entendre (songs that have a double meaning).



Some of the famous entertainers, who hail from all parts of the Caribbean include: The Mighty Sparrow, Short Shirt, Lord Kitchner, Louis Ible, Jr., Whaddablee, Lord Nelson, King Obstinate, Calypso Rose, The Mighty Chalkdust, Singing Francine, and so many more, it is impossible to name them all.

Calypso Revue generally runs for two nights, and is incredibly entertaining. The outfits are generally glitzy, particularly on the second night, and props are used to give emphasis to the songs. It's theatre at its best.

My greatest challenge in my first two carnivals in the Virgin Islands was simply understanding the accents of the singers. If you don't know what's being said, you feel real left out when every one is screaming with laughter, singing chorus, or participating in call and response. I learned super fast.

Calypso is a unique art form that has influenced many genres of music. Think about it this way, Calypsonians were rapping long before there was anything called rap.

So, tonight Lionel Roberts Stadium will be rocking with some of the best Calypso on the planet, and I may not be there physically, but I'm going to be there in spirit ... with that chicken leg, and Red Stripe.

St. Thomas Carnival: Echoes Through Time

Well, St. Thomas Carnival officially kicked off on April 12, and around now it is in full swing. The theme this year is: Echoes Through Time. Events like the Prince & Princess Selection Show, The Queen Selection Show, Toddler's Derby and Junior Calypso Revue (young Calypsonians), have already come and gone. But, there's so much more to come.

St. Thomas Carnival Magazine

Coming up this week are some popular events. First, there's Cultural Night, which celebrates the history and culture of the Virgin Islands, and takes place at Lionel Robert's Stadium. You can count on seeing awesome exhibitions of Quadrille and Bamboula dancing (both in elaborate costumes, of course).

The Quadrille is a parlor dance that made its way to the islands from Europe around the same time as the Waltz. The dance, described as a five-figure square dance, was observed by blacks as they served guests in the European style ballrooms of wealthy planters and merchants. They soon copied and adapted the dance for themselves, and it still survives today.

The Bamboula, on the other hand, came straight from Africa ... by way of slaves. It is a dance that comes complete with lots of drums and body movements associated with Africa, and is the only dance that is considered indigenous to the Virgin Islands.

Other Cultural Night activities include, Maypole Dances, Masqueraders, troupes, groups and more. It is a spectacular celebration.

During Cultural Night the most elaborate costumes that will lead the various troupes and floupes on the day of the big parade, will be presented. The parade is like the jewel in the crown. It is the last big event of the festival, and can I say ... it is an all day event. We're talking from 10:oo am until ... yes, it has run as late as 9:00 pm. Does anyone mind? Absolutely not. But, more on that later.

The King and Queen of the Band will be chosen based on those spectacular costumes. It is a huge honor because these costumes are so stupendous, so amazing, and some are so big, that part of their under-carriage is riding on small wheels. I call them human floats.




Then, there's Latin Calypso Night, which is a celebration of Latin music with local bands, and bands from Puerta Rico and various other islands. Dancing in the aisles is definitely allowed. This is where you get your Salsa on.

Oh, did I mention there are carnival rides and games? Well, there are. I would say it's for the kids, but you see an awful lot of folks over there who don't have children.

Also coming up at the end of this week is Calypso Revue. Now, that's one of the events I NEVER missed. Not under any circumstances.

Calypsonians are the highest level of Caribbean entertainer, and are a combination of singer, poet (most write their own songs), and performer. They are true artists. The show consists of local performers, and the best and most famous Calypsonians from all over the Caribbean, the States, Canada, or where ever they happen to be living.

These artists converge on St. Thomas at Carnival and .... IT'S ON!!!

Next time, we'll take a closer look at some famous Calypsonians who have graced St. Thomas' carnival stage in the past.

St. Thomas Carnival: A Personal Perspective

It is difficult to explain my first carnival as a newcomer to the Virgin Islands. I found it so exciting ... because I had never experienced anything similar. It was all new to me, and I drank it in like an intoxicating drink. Ten years later, I was still as enchanted as that first year.

I admit I was like a child with eyes as big as saucers; wanting to experience every bit of fun and wonder, but at the same time wanting to understand the history behind all I witnessed. I couldn't then, and still can't believe how interesting it is from a historical perspective; which made me feel something like an anthropologist, fastidiously digging for treasure.

The Caribbean carnival celebration that many credit with beginning in Trinidad, according to a number of scholars, actually has its roots in Africa. It made the transition across the ocean, and began first in Trinidad before spreading to other Caribbean islands, landing eventually in the Virgin Islands.

One of the adjustments I had to make as a new islander was the size of everything. My first carnival event at Lionel Roberts stadium, for instance was an eye-opener. I knew better than to expect anything even resembling say, Soldier Field in Chicago, but still I was surprised at the small size of the stadium.

Amazingly though, even that worked for me. There was more camaraderie and more closeness among both friends and strangers ... and believe me, that's a wonderful factor during some of the events when the crowd actually participate with the performers, as in call-and-response when the Calypsonians are singing (we'll get to that later).

Oh, amazing carnival. I can still close my eyes and and get a clear image of me at the stadium heading up into the stands for an evening of fun, ready to whoop and holler at the hilarious, the intriguing, and yes, the bawdy ... with my fried chicken leg in one hand, and my Red Stripe in the other.

"Rain Don't Stop the Carnival!"

Carnival is the most exciting event on the annual Virgin Islands calendar. It starts slowly with the different pageants like, Queen Selection, and events like Junior Calypso competition and Cultural Night, but excitement builds as it moves toward the end.

And finally it's the last week and BAM! The last 7-10 days are positively insane: sleep is simply not a priority; employers are threatening employees about showing up for work; shop owners in town are making plans to shut down on certain days (some close the entire last week of the festival); stores are running out of cut-off jeans, and shorts; beauty shops are open longer hours ... it's just crazy! Good crazy.

But, before we get into what happens during Carnival, I should discuss how all this wonderful craziness began ... so let's go all the way back. The very first Virgin Islands Carnival took place in 1912. The next one took place in 1914 and unfortunately, there was a 40-year hiatus before another Carnival celebration happened in 1952. Then, it was ON! Carnival hasn't stopped since.

Because of the weather, the 1952 celebration was a real challenge. There was a deluge of rain. All the bands, the grand Marshall, the troupes were ready ... but the rain wouldn't stop. Neither would the Duke of Iron.

Trinidad Calypsonian (calypso singer), The Duke of Iron composed a song on the spot, "Rain Don't Stop the Carnival" and while singing with the accompaniment of some of the musicians, led the Gypsy troupe, the bands and everyone else down the road ... in a drenching downpour, setting the stage for future generations.

Despite the rain, Carnival was a huge success that year, and every year since it just keeps getting bigger and better.