St. Thomas Carnival: Echoes Through Time

Well, St. Thomas Carnival officially kicked off on April 12, and around now it is in full swing. The theme this year is: Echoes Through Time. Events like the Prince & Princess Selection Show, The Queen Selection Show, Toddler's Derby and Junior Calypso Revue (young Calypsonians), have already come and gone. But, there's so much more to come.

St. Thomas Carnival Magazine

Coming up this week are some popular events. First, there's Cultural Night, which celebrates the history and culture of the Virgin Islands, and takes place at Lionel Robert's Stadium. You can count on seeing awesome exhibitions of Quadrille and Bamboula dancing (both in elaborate costumes, of course).

The Quadrille is a parlor dance that made its way to the islands from Europe around the same time as the Waltz. The dance, described as a five-figure square dance, was observed by blacks as they served guests in the European style ballrooms of wealthy planters and merchants. They soon copied and adapted the dance for themselves, and it still survives today.

The Bamboula, on the other hand, came straight from Africa ... by way of slaves. It is a dance that comes complete with lots of drums and body movements associated with Africa, and is the only dance that is considered indigenous to the Virgin Islands.

Other Cultural Night activities include, Maypole Dances, Masqueraders, troupes, groups and more. It is a spectacular celebration.

During Cultural Night the most elaborate costumes that will lead the various troupes and floupes on the day of the big parade, will be presented. The parade is like the jewel in the crown. It is the last big event of the festival, and can I say ... it is an all day event. We're talking from 10:oo am until ... yes, it has run as late as 9:00 pm. Does anyone mind? Absolutely not. But, more on that later.

The King and Queen of the Band will be chosen based on those spectacular costumes. It is a huge honor because these costumes are so stupendous, so amazing, and some are so big, that part of their under-carriage is riding on small wheels. I call them human floats.




Then, there's Latin Calypso Night, which is a celebration of Latin music with local bands, and bands from Puerta Rico and various other islands. Dancing in the aisles is definitely allowed. This is where you get your Salsa on.

Oh, did I mention there are carnival rides and games? Well, there are. I would say it's for the kids, but you see an awful lot of folks over there who don't have children.

Also coming up at the end of this week is Calypso Revue. Now, that's one of the events I NEVER missed. Not under any circumstances.

Calypsonians are the highest level of Caribbean entertainer, and are a combination of singer, poet (most write their own songs), and performer. They are true artists. The show consists of local performers, and the best and most famous Calypsonians from all over the Caribbean, the States, Canada, or where ever they happen to be living.

These artists converge on St. Thomas at Carnival and .... IT'S ON!!!

Next time, we'll take a closer look at some famous Calypsonians who have graced St. Thomas' carnival stage in the past.

St. Thomas Here I Come!

So, there I was ... back stateside. Back at work. My vacation over.

The one bright spot was that I knew I would be returning to the Virgin Islands as soon as I could day-trade (trade off days with other employees), and string enough days off together to make another trip worthwhile. Remember, I was working for an airline.

Pretty soon I had established a pattern of travel to St. Thomas that took me there once, sometimes twice a month. During some of those visits, I made sure to circulate resumes to the contacts I had made on the first visits. I wasn't exactly clear why I did this; it just seemed that you never knew. Networking was always a good idea.

Then, after several months ... big news. Really, bad news! The airline was going under. Kapoosh! Down the drain! It was disheartening. For a few minutes. Until I realized that perhaps, this was an opportunity. Time to take that lemon and make some lemonade.

I began making plans to do something almost unbelievable. I started planning a relocation to the Virgin Islands.

Four months later, I was a resident of St. Thomas.

The Last Days of my St. Thomas Vacation

I couldn't believe my Virgin Islands vacation was almost over. Rats! I couldn't remember when I'd had so much fun. But not just fun, I'd had a curious sense of contentment the entire visit. And now it was time to leave.

I had packed as much into each of the seven days that I could. The day after the Sunday afternoon beach party at Sapphire Beach, I had been the typical tourist and visited a few of the great attractions.

Ferry leaving Red Hook to St. John

I had taken the short ferry ride to the island of St. John, which amazingly is about two-thirds national park. Of course, the park is a story in itself ... with Laurence S. Rockefeller as the main character. It was Rockefeller who bought up thousands of acres of land and turned it over to the federal government in 1956 to help create the Virgin Islands National Park at St. John. But, that's a story for another day.

The pristine beauty found on St. John is difficult to imagine; the rustic little village of Cruz Bay where the ferry boats dock is straight out of a novel; and the beaches ... well, all I can say is breathtaking.

Cruz Bay, St. John

During the next few days the attractions I visited included:

Coral World Ocean Park
A marine park built on a peninsula adjacent to Coki Beach on St. Thomas' east end. From an underwater observatory that is 15 feet down spectacular ocean life seems up close and personal. Then, there's the 80,000 gallon circular coral reef aquarium; the shark shallows; stingray lagoon; turtle park; and so much more. Before you go, check on feeding times, which is fun to see, especially if children are along.

Atlantis Submarine
This is a submarine designed to take excursions 90 feet down under. During the hour long dive each passenger has his own window on the world of the sea. A diver adds to the excitement of the experience by doing a feeding. Just be aware that children must be 36" tall, no exceptions. Now, I'm just a little claustrophobic so this was something I had to challenge myself to do; but in the end it was well worth it.

Paradise Point Tramway
Essentially a seven minute cable car ride up 700 feet above sea level. Once at the top of this mini mountain, there's a "knock your socks off" view. The most popular time to visit the Point is at sunset. The town of Charlotte Amalie, the ocean, the cruise ships in port ... it's just an awesome sight. There's also a cafe, bar, boutiques and souvenir shops at Paradise Point.

I took a sight-seeing tour that meandered its way into the hills above the town of Charlotte Amalie, and ended at Magens Bay Beach. Amazing! I was reminded of my first taxi ride and my fear of both the height and lack of guardrails. I was still petrified, but it was getting better. My advice ... if you don't see St. Thomas from this perspective, you've probably missed about half the beauty of the island.

As an airline employee I visited some of the hotels and resorts, met staff and asked a load of questions. I was heartily welcomed and even received tours of some of the larger properties. I would later look back at the contacts I made during those visits with a great deal of gratitude.

But alas, that last day finally rolled around. Although my heart was heavy, I was already planning my next trip.

As I boarded my flight that afternoon, I took one last look around, smiled and promised myself , I would return many times to what had become my own wonderful paradise.

Liming (Partying) Island Style

The days following my arrival on the island, I was slowly, relentlessly and absolutely being seduced by the sun, sand, and sea. I was completely entranced with the music, people, beaches, and just altogether comfortable with the beautiful, lush surroundings.

At first, it was relaxing to slow down, not rush around, and slide into the islander's slow, easy style of living. Plus, moving too fast generally attracted attention; and not in a good way.

It wasn't until I was living there that I'd feel like screaming ... "There's a reason they call this FAST food!" ... while standing in a line at say, McDonald's that was so slow, I could read a couple of newspaper articles before making it to the counter. But, it's amazing how I eventually and unconsciously adapted to the slower pace.

My first beach experience was at Sapphire Beach Resort. Everyone kept telling me I didn't want to miss the Sunday afternoon beach party. Pretty soon, I believed them. When Sunday rolled around, on my third day, I was off to Sapphire.

What a party!

Also designed as individual condos, Sapphire Resort has a casual ambiance with an open lobby, restaurants, and a gift shop. It is best known for great water sports: sunfish sailing, windsurfing, snorkeling; and a long, lovely beach with sugary white sand, beautiful palm trees and amazing turquoise water.

Videos on Sapphire Beach, St. Thomas, USVI

A covered pavilion on the beach is a big attraction ... okay, it's the star attraction (aside from the beach), of the resort. A covered dance floor with a recessed bar, and a stage for the bands that play there puts the J in jam on Sunday afternoons.

Some of the locals ... and visitors swim and picnic in the morning on the beach, then in the afternoon dance to live Calypso/Reggae music at the pavilion. Calypso, by the way, is the main music heard in the Virgin Islands.

Then, the serious partiers show up once the band starts to play to get their dance on. They're the ones without sarongs and swimsuits; free of sand; hair combed and with shoes on. But, what's great is that all are appropriate.

Everyone comes together to lime (party), island style.

This is where I was introduced to the Bushwhacker (a potent, popular island drink); Caribbean dancing; and Calypso music (I had been more familiar with Reggae). Calypso is quite different (more on that later).

Talk about fun? By the time I left that evening, I was sold on the Caribbean, the Virgin Islands and St. Thomas.

More on the beautiful beaches of the Virgin Islands and its 4 main islands later!

Why I Write About the Virgin Islands

My first blog about the years I spent in the Virgin Islands described my initial trip to the U.S. territory. In hindsight, I thought it might have been more appropriate to begin by explaining the importance of those ten years of my life ... and why it's important to write about that time.

Living there was both transformative and restorative. The experience was transformative because I was forced to rely on my writing to generate income. It was in the Virgin Islands that I became a writer (for real). Restorative because the islands' incredible beauty inspired spiritual reflection ... and truly restored my soul.

My surroundings affirmed the merits of: a simple life; the great natural beauty of God's earth; and the resourcefulness of the human spirit to prevail under exigent circumstances.

When I first stepped off the airplane in the Virgin Islands and looked around, I felt something akin to coming home; although I'd never been there, or anywhere in the Caribbean, it was still familiar ... and not "I saw this in that movie" familiar.

It was similar to the first time I'd heard drumming (authentic African drumming), as a young adult. I was in the park and four or five guys in African dress were playing to the delight of an impromptu audience.

I was surprised by the emotions those rhythmical, driving, relentless drum beats inspired: as if I had heard it many times before ... although I never had. That day, the drums affirmed a kinship with Africa that was both profound and comforting.

My arrival in St. Thomas had that same surreal quality. I sensed that at some long ago crossroads of time, one or some of my ancestors had walked, lived, loved labored, sweat and probably died, if not in this specific place, than one very much like it.

It was small wonder then that I took to the Caribbean lifestyle without preamble or hesitation. I claimed it good and bad.

Of course, that was my first visit to the Virgin Islands, and relocating there didn't enter my mind that day. But when I look back now, I know it did enter my heart.

City Slicker to Mellow Islander: How It All Began

In the early '90's I was diligently working for a small, regional airline in the southeastern United States. I had little interest in visiting most of the cities on our limited route until ... wonder of wonders ... a new route to the Caribbean was announced. I couldn't believe it. We were going to begin flying to the U.S. Virgin Islands!

Most of my friends and family had heard of the Virgin Islands, but knew next to nothing about this U.S. territory. So, I'd have to explain that it is only a couple of hours from Puerto Rico, and consists of three major islands: St. Thomas, St. John and St. Croix; as well as close to a hundred small islets and cays. Oh, and that from the pictures I'd seen, it was extraordinarily beautiful.

I had never been to the Caribbean, so my first trip, to the island of St. Thomas a few months later, was highly anticipated.

I get my first impression of the island while still in the air as we come in for a landing. Looking out the window of the MD80, I stare down at the ocean mesmerized by the breathtaking beauty of the impossibly clear, turquoise water.

My later experiences would be that ... no matter how travelled visitors to the Virgin Islands happened to be, they were always amazed at the beauty of the waters and beaches.

My second impression, as I walk down the steps of the airplane to the ground (no Jetway here), is of heat so solid, it is like hitting a wall. It is the kind of heat that immediately generates perspiration (everywhere!); the kind of heat that gives you an urge to disrobe, at least of any extra outer wear.

What makes the heat tolerable and probably saves us all from absolute annihilation are the gentle tradewind breezes.

But, I am soon distracted from the heat by the picturesque beauty of colorful, pastel painted houses strewn across rolling, green hills. I would learn that St. Thomas' nickname is 'The Rock', because of those hills. The islands were formed by volcanic activity and as a result are mountainous and rocky, which makes farming extremely difficult.

Inside the airport travelers are greeted by Steel Pan musicians, and ladies adorned in native costume speaking in lyrical accents as they offer tastes of popular island drinks - especially Fruit Punch - with or without the rum that is made right on the island of St. Croix. Crucian Rum is one of very few products manufactured in the Virgin Islands.

Before I know it, my luggage and I are loaded into a long - thankfully air-conditioned -van (that seats about 15), and we're heading up hills so steep, I bite my lip to keep from crying out as we

seem to travel straight up.

I chance a look out the window and gaze down at the town of Charlotte Amalie below. We had recently passed through the lovely little town with the red-roofed shops on one side of the street and the harbor on the other.

I find it impossible to enjoy the view, however as I notice there is nothing even resembling a guard rail on the side of the road, and one wrong move could send us plunging over the side of the mountain!

I keep my eyes straight ahead until I reach my destination. Of course I would learn it's not as easy as all that to go over the mountain ... but it is indeed possible.

My resort is as they say ... "In the country", which means up from town, and in the mountains. It is a large, older property spread out over many acres of land, and set up like condos. There's the living room with floor to ceiling windows that opens onto a wrap-around balcony that's to die for; a dining area, kitchen, bedroom and bath. It really does look more like a movie set rather than some place I'd be staying.

It's not long before I realize the air conditioning doesn't work, but with all the balcony doors open and the ceiling fans on in every room, it is unbelievably breezy and yes, cool.

Something else I'd learn: most houses aren't air conditioned. Strategically placed ceiling fans, regular fans, windows, proper clothing, and a natural physical resistence to the heat (built up overtime), are the weapons of choice.

Later that evening, after settling in, I am dressed for dinner and waiting for the taxi to take me to the restaurant that I've been told has one of the island's best views, as well as some of the best cuisine on the island.

I walk out onto the balcony and look down at the twinkling lights in the houses all over the valley far below, and it's so beautiful, tears well up in my eyes and threaten to spill over and ruin my make-up. I quickly blink them back as I think, this is indeed paradise.

Suddenly, a small shiver travels up my spine as I feel this trip may turn out to be even more of an adventure than I can imagine.

Just then I hear the taxi give a couple of short bleeps outside.

I shake my head to rid myself of fanciful thoughts, grab my purse, and I'm off to begin the adventure.