Hurricane Bill Moving in on St. Thomas

This is hurricane season; words that have a special meaning to those living in an area of the world prone to these destructive storms.

I am a survivor of Hurricane Marilyn, which struck the Virgin Islands, and most particularly St. Thomas in 1995. If it is true that adversity builds character, then I am a towering mass of character.

Marilyn hit on September 15, 1995, lasted about 15 hours and was the worst hurricane in Virgin Islands recorded history. Over 95 percent of structures on the island were damaged or totally destroyed. Recovery took months and in some cases, years.


Hurricane Marilyn at its Height

It was three months before the island had electricity in some areas, one year before telephone service was restored to all parts of the island (I was one of those with no phone service for a full year), and years before homes, businesses and public buildings were restored.


Destructive Aftermath of Hurricane Marilyn

I could expound on what it was like to have to wait until the generator was turned on each day from 6pm until 9pm to flush the toilet, wash dishes, take a bath, etc., but, you don't want to hear about that. Let's just say, both the hurricane and the aftermath are experiences that I'll never forget.

Hurricane Bill is currently approaching the Virgin Islands and has been predicted to be a Category 2 storm that will possibly reach St. Thomas on the 19th or 20th.

I don't want to mention this, but I feel I must: Hurricane Marilyn was predicted to be a Category 1 (little more than a tropical storm). Now that's what it was when it hit St. Croix (about 45 miles from St. Thomas), that fateful evening. But, when it left St. Croix and crossed the ocean it gathered in strength and ferocity. By the time it arrived in St. Thomas, it was another story altogether.

Afterward, the National Weather Service admitted that the storm strengthened possibly to a Category 3, and maybe a 4. Let me say that for those who suffered through those 15 hours, it was obvious, we were in a storm that was at the least a Category 4 and at the most, a 5.

I am praying that this storm either disspates, or really will be no more than a Category 1.

An approaching hurricane is a frightening reality, especially when it is realized that the only possible defense is leaving the area, or if that is impossible, making the necessary preparations.

Steel Pan Music is ambassador For the Caribbean

When one hears steel pan music it is easy to imagine the beautiful tropical paradise that spawned the magical music.

Pan music is perhaps the most innovative musical contribution of the twentieth century, and is an intrinsic part of the culture of the Caribbean.

Steelbands originated in Trinidad and were born out of the people's need to continue the African tradition of drumming despite the British prohibition of the instruments, especially during Carnival celebrations.

For many years, revelers substituted bamboo tubes for the drums, which they beat on with bamboo sticks. Then, at some point during the 1930's it was discovered that metal produced a more melodious, resonant sound and from that point everything from tin pans to brake drums were introduced to the mix.

During the early years, the pan hung on straps around the player's necks or, as it's expressed ... "pan round de neck". The use of oil drums, which produced a wider range of notes, and the transporting trolleys came later.


Steelbands eventually sprung up in different parts of the Caribbean, including in St. Thomas where it was introduced at the 1952 Carnival (the first Carnival the island had celebrated since 1914). Needless to say, the music was a big hit, as it has been around the world.

Today, pan is the true ambassador of Caribbean music.

St. Thomas' Famous Mountaintop Burns Down

Mountaintop, the famous tourist spot atop St. Peter's mountain burned down on the evening of May 18th. What a huge loss to the community and to the many people who hold cherished memories of the attraction.

Famous for its Banana Daiquiris, which has used the same receipe for 60 years, Mountaintop was also famous for it's bird's eye view of the beautiful Magen's Bay Beach and a multitude of surrounding islands. The view was considered the best on the island of St. Thomas.

Also known as Signal Hill, Mountaintop was used by the U.S. Government in the 1940's as a communications center and at approximately 1,500 ft. above sea level is the island's highest point.

I remember Mountaintop as being one of the most colorful areas on St. Thomas. There was the bar, the shops, the Parakeet lady, the music ... and of course, the view. There was always a line of colorful Safaris loaded with cruise ship passengers and other vacationers coming up for some Mountaintop ambience.

We hope that the owners will rebuild and that Mountaintop reemerges even bigger and better than before the fire.

St. Thomas' Amazing 99 Steps

An aspect of St. Thomas that I have always found intriguing are the 99 Steps. These are steps found in various areas of Charlotte Amalie (the capital of the VI), that makes it easier (slightly) to traverse the many hills on the island.

In actuality there are 103 steps, not 99, which is really kind of funny.

The most popular of the steps are located on Government Hill next to Hotel 29, formerly a private home built by a nineteenth century sea captain for his bride, and Haagensen House, a restored nineteenth century upper-class family home.

The Steps circa the 1950's

The above photograph shows the area surrounding the steps before some of the amazing restorations of the past couple of decades, particularly to Haagensen House.

Everyone, including Virgin Island historians agree on how the steps became a part of St. Thomas' landscape. It seems Danish engineers who laid out the town (in Denmark), had never actually been to St. Thomas. After all, in the 1600's the trip from Denmark to the Virgin Islands would have been long, and hazardous.

The story goes these engineers had no idea of the island's hilly terrain, and when the mistake was discovered, the steps were added as an attempt to connect the various streets of the town to approximate (as much as possible), the original vision of a flat terrain.

The steps traveled to the island as ship's ballast.

The 99 Steps on Government Hill lead up to Blackbeard's hill, where one will find historical structures such as, Blackbeard's Castle, built originally as a pirate lookout, and Crown House, the home built for Governor Peter Von Scholten, the man who freed Virgin Islands slaves.

It is interesting to travel around the town of Charlotte Amalie and suddenly look up and notice some of the steps in various areas. Sometimes they're heavily used by town residents, and sometimes they look somewhat overgrown. But, whatever the case, they are always intriguing, and a beautiful feature of a beautiful island.

The Bush Tea Calypso

We talked previously about Calypso music and how there are different kinds, and most of it, except for Soca, which is primarily dance music, focuses on the story told in the song.

A while back, I ran across the old sketch below with a Calypso about Bush Tea, which is definitely an important part of the islands' culture. Bush Tea is derived from, yes BUSHES! Bushes that grow wild all over the islands, but particularly of course, in the more wooded areas. I have however, seen people picking bushes from the side of the road. Of course, you really have to know what you're doing, for example the difference between Lemon Grass and regular grass.

During Carnival, at certain times there are restaurants serving free Bush Tea.

There are said to be approximately 400 varieties of Bush Tea, but what makes it special is that most are considered medicinal. As a matter of fact, some years back there was an elderly gentleman on a local television talk show who was supposed to have more knowledge about the teas than anyone still living, and I believe he said he knew hundreds of varieties; and what medicinal purpose each should be used for ... whether preventative or curative.

What was interesting was that this man refused to teach anyone what he knew, including his son, who he said wasn't really interested. Unfortunately, that meant his knowledge would leave the earth with him. I hope someone broke down his resolve and got the information before it was too late. In any case, even if no one did, today there are people who have extensive knowledge of Bush Teas.

Here is the Calypso:

She had her dress tied up over her waist

And was wriggling down the street

She had on a pair of old slaps on her feet

Just then she started to name the different weeds

And I really was more than glad

Although I can't remember all

that she called

These are a few she had:

She had pap bush, elder bush,

black pepper bush

Then soldier, corporal and carpadulla

Fabian leaf, money bush, soldier posely

Pumpkin blossom and even devil doer.

Demon Congo, grass in galore

Physic nut, and lily root

In fact the only bush she didn't have

Was the bush for everyday soup.

Author Anonymous

Is it possible to purchase Bush Tea outside of the Virgin Islands? You bet. Check out: http://www.vibushtea.com

Parade Day in St. Thomas

It's Adult Parade day and the last official day of Carnival. Remember, this is the event that can last 9-10 hours. But, that's what makes it so much fun.

The parade also marks the end of Carnival. Oh, there'll be another couple of activities, like the fireworks display, this year dedicated to President Barack Obama, but for the most part, when the parade is over, carnival is over for another year.

The images of carnival:

Happy Carnival!

A J'ouvert Story

As I'm writing this, J'ouvert (pronounced J'ou-vay) warm-up is in progress in St. Thomas. J'ouvert, a pre-dawn dance through the streets of Charlotte Amalie will begin at 4:00 am and run approximately 5-6 hours.

There is something enchanting about thousands of people pouring into the dark, early morning streets waiting for the first flatbed truck loaded with bands, and humongous speakers to weave into view.

As the trucks roll slowly by, booming some of the best road march music imaginable, fans fall in behind and in front of the one carrying their favorite band, and begin their tramp (dance). The sun rises on thousands of people jamming with abandon to pounding Calypso music. Although it can get a little risque, it is fantastic fun.

Bands play at various locations around the island leading up to J'ouvert. The partying can actually last for a couple of days straight.

A TRUE J'OUVERT STORY
My first carnival, I was working on a pretty demanding job, but still trying to make ALL the canival events. Well, I was invited to J'ouvert by someone I had just begun dating. I was really excited because this was someone I really liked a lot, plus I was looking forward to this new carnival experience that I had heard so much about.



The day of J'ouvert, I was pretty tired, so I left work early, called my date and explained that I was running on low because of all the festivities, and wanted to change our plans. Since he had to work until early evening and I wanted to take a nap, I suggested we meet at the pre-J'ouvert warm-up later on. We agreed on the time and everything was set.


I got everything ready for later, set the alarm and laid down to take my nap.

I woke up with the sun in my eyes. It took me a few minutes to wonder why the sun was up. Then, it hit me. I jumped up like a scalded cat. I believe I actually screamed. I turned the alarm off, already understanding what had happened. I had set the clock for 9am not 9pm.

I hurriedly dialed my friend, but as expected, no answer. My heart sank. I couldn't believe this had happened. Tears of frustration rolled down my cheeks as I jumped into the outfit I had planned to wear the night before all the time wondering why he hadn't called. It was then that I noticed the bed room phone was off the hook.

Can you believe that? I couldn't.


I went looking for my friend. As I reached the downtown area, J'ouvert was winding down, and sleepy eyed revelers were passing me on their way to the beach (a tradition after the tramp), or to carnival Village.

I finally found my friend at a restaurant on waterfront. I calmly explained that I had fallen asleep, and unfortunately had set the clock wrong and overslept. I apologized profusely. I mean profusely. He was extremely quiet during my explanation. Finally, I understood why he was quiet. He hadn't believed a word I had said; he thought I had intentionally stood him up.


When I didn't show up, he had tried to call me, and after prolonged busy signals the operator had told him the telephone was apparently off the hook. He had figured something more interesting had come along and I had chosen to do that, rather than be with him. There was nothing I could say to get him to believe that I really had fallen asleep, set the clock wrong, and had knocked the phone off the hook. Actually, it was hard for me to believe, and I knew it was true. He finished his breakfast, said he'd catch me later, and walked out of the restaurant.

So, that's how I missed my first J'ouvert. A sad story, huh? I still think of it today. Needless to say, my friend and I never get together after that. No trust; on his part.

I finally accepted the crazy incident by understanding that everything happens for a reason. I may never understand what the reason was, and can only hope it was worth my missing everything ... and I do mean everything!

But, life goes on, and I never missed another J'ouvert.