St. Thomas' Amazing 99 Steps

An aspect of St. Thomas that I have always found intriguing are the 99 Steps. These are steps found in various areas of Charlotte Amalie (the capital of the VI), that makes it easier (slightly) to traverse the many hills on the island.

In actuality there are 103 steps, not 99, which is really kind of funny.

The most popular of the steps are located on Government Hill next to Hotel 29, formerly a private home built by a nineteenth century sea captain for his bride, and Haagensen House, a restored nineteenth century upper-class family home.

The Steps circa the 1950's

The above photograph shows the area surrounding the steps before some of the amazing restorations of the past couple of decades, particularly to Haagensen House.

Everyone, including Virgin Island historians agree on how the steps became a part of St. Thomas' landscape. It seems Danish engineers who laid out the town (in Denmark), had never actually been to St. Thomas. After all, in the 1600's the trip from Denmark to the Virgin Islands would have been long, and hazardous.

The story goes these engineers had no idea of the island's hilly terrain, and when the mistake was discovered, the steps were added as an attempt to connect the various streets of the town to approximate (as much as possible), the original vision of a flat terrain.

The steps traveled to the island as ship's ballast.

The 99 Steps on Government Hill lead up to Blackbeard's hill, where one will find historical structures such as, Blackbeard's Castle, built originally as a pirate lookout, and Crown House, the home built for Governor Peter Von Scholten, the man who freed Virgin Islands slaves.

It is interesting to travel around the town of Charlotte Amalie and suddenly look up and notice some of the steps in various areas. Sometimes they're heavily used by town residents, and sometimes they look somewhat overgrown. But, whatever the case, they are always intriguing, and a beautiful feature of a beautiful island.

A Little Virgin Islands History

The Virgin Islands is located at the head of the arc of the chain of islands stretching northward from Trinidad. These islands are known as the Lesser Antilles. They stand on the threshold of the group of larger islands continuing westward that is known as the Greater Antilles.

The Virgin Islands were created for the most part by a great volcanic explosion, and as a result has a rocky, hilly, mountainous terrain. It is amazing that the island of St. Thomas is only 32 square miles and St. John is approximately 19 square miles. The hills and mountains give the islands an appearance of being much larger.

Archaeological discoveries place human inhabitants on the islands as early as 710 BC. The Tanio, Arawak and the Carib (the tribe of Indians from whom the Caribbean takes its name), were some of these early inhabitants and survived by hunting, fishing and practicing agriculture.

MAPes MONDe Collection

The Virgin Islands received its name from Christopher Columbus. When he landed in the Lesser Antilles in 1493, Columbus named the seemingly countless unspoiled islands, cays, and islets, The Virgin islands, after the legendary Ursula and her 11,000 virgin followers.

By 1671, after periods of squabbling and brief occupations by Holland, France, England, Denmark, Knights of Malta, Spain and the Dutch, Denmark emerged victorious and the ruler of St. Thomas. It wasn't long before the expansion minded Danes had also added St. John and St. Croix to their holdings, which effectively united the three major islands.

The Danes ruled the Virgin Islands through a series of Danish governors until 1925 when the islands were sold to America for $25,000,000.

Today, the Danish influence is still evident in its wonderful architecture, and in the names of the streets in Charlotte Amalie, which is the Capital of the Virgin Islands.

Charlotte Amalie, by the way is named after a Danish queen.

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St. Thomas: My New & Beautiful Tropical Home

So, I relocated to the small Caribbean island of St. Thomas, Virgin Islands. A U.S. territory since 1917 when the island was purchased from the Danish for 25 million.

And, there I was ... a stranger in a strange land. But, as I said before, although there was some cultural difference, I felt right at home.

Immigrants from the U.S. mainland are called state-siders ... and not always with the most positive reference.

My biggest difficulties were adjusting to the heat, and understanding the speech of the islanders, which was English spoken quite rapidly, often with heavy accents. I found the lilting accents beautiful; almost musical. In time, I not only easily understood the speech, but when I returned to the states for visits was told I had acquired something of an accent myself ... although I never heard it.

My living situation was quite exceptional as I lived on a hill above town and had a wrap-around balcony that afforded me an enviable view of the cruise ships in St. Thomas Harbor. The harbor was in the town of Charlotte Amalie, the Capital of the Virgin Islands.

St. Thomas Harbor in Charlotte Amalie as seen from my balcony

St. Thomas harbor at sunset from my balcony

During high season, which ran between December and May, the island could accommodate as many as 16 ships spread out between Havensight Harbor, St. Thomas Harbor (hailed as one of the deepest harbors in the world), and Sub-Base (an area that had been a naval base for many years).

I did not need to become accustomed to my surroundings, which were amazingly colorful and beautiful. My yard contained plentiful fruit trees, like Genip, Tamarind, and Mangos; lush flowers like the Bouganvillea, Oleander and Flamboyant; and exotic animals like the Iguanas that boldly crossed the yard as if they, not me were the rightful tenants of the house.

Iguana on an early morning yard crossing

Iguana on tree limb in yard

As a visitor from Cleveland, Ohio once so appropriately put it:"It's as if everything where I came from is in black and white, while everything here is in technicolor."

I couldn't have said it better myself.

The Last Days of my St. Thomas Vacation

I couldn't believe my Virgin Islands vacation was almost over. Rats! I couldn't remember when I'd had so much fun. But not just fun, I'd had a curious sense of contentment the entire visit. And now it was time to leave.

I had packed as much into each of the seven days that I could. The day after the Sunday afternoon beach party at Sapphire Beach, I had been the typical tourist and visited a few of the great attractions.

Ferry leaving Red Hook to St. John

I had taken the short ferry ride to the island of St. John, which amazingly is about two-thirds national park. Of course, the park is a story in itself ... with Laurence S. Rockefeller as the main character. It was Rockefeller who bought up thousands of acres of land and turned it over to the federal government in 1956 to help create the Virgin Islands National Park at St. John. But, that's a story for another day.

The pristine beauty found on St. John is difficult to imagine; the rustic little village of Cruz Bay where the ferry boats dock is straight out of a novel; and the beaches ... well, all I can say is breathtaking.

Cruz Bay, St. John

During the next few days the attractions I visited included:

Coral World Ocean Park
A marine park built on a peninsula adjacent to Coki Beach on St. Thomas' east end. From an underwater observatory that is 15 feet down spectacular ocean life seems up close and personal. Then, there's the 80,000 gallon circular coral reef aquarium; the shark shallows; stingray lagoon; turtle park; and so much more. Before you go, check on feeding times, which is fun to see, especially if children are along.

Atlantis Submarine
This is a submarine designed to take excursions 90 feet down under. During the hour long dive each passenger has his own window on the world of the sea. A diver adds to the excitement of the experience by doing a feeding. Just be aware that children must be 36" tall, no exceptions. Now, I'm just a little claustrophobic so this was something I had to challenge myself to do; but in the end it was well worth it.

Paradise Point Tramway
Essentially a seven minute cable car ride up 700 feet above sea level. Once at the top of this mini mountain, there's a "knock your socks off" view. The most popular time to visit the Point is at sunset. The town of Charlotte Amalie, the ocean, the cruise ships in port ... it's just an awesome sight. There's also a cafe, bar, boutiques and souvenir shops at Paradise Point.

I took a sight-seeing tour that meandered its way into the hills above the town of Charlotte Amalie, and ended at Magens Bay Beach. Amazing! I was reminded of my first taxi ride and my fear of both the height and lack of guardrails. I was still petrified, but it was getting better. My advice ... if you don't see St. Thomas from this perspective, you've probably missed about half the beauty of the island.

As an airline employee I visited some of the hotels and resorts, met staff and asked a load of questions. I was heartily welcomed and even received tours of some of the larger properties. I would later look back at the contacts I made during those visits with a great deal of gratitude.

But alas, that last day finally rolled around. Although my heart was heavy, I was already planning my next trip.

As I boarded my flight that afternoon, I took one last look around, smiled and promised myself , I would return many times to what had become my own wonderful paradise.

City Slicker to Mellow Islander: How It All Began

In the early '90's I was diligently working for a small, regional airline in the southeastern United States. I had little interest in visiting most of the cities on our limited route until ... wonder of wonders ... a new route to the Caribbean was announced. I couldn't believe it. We were going to begin flying to the U.S. Virgin Islands!

Most of my friends and family had heard of the Virgin Islands, but knew next to nothing about this U.S. territory. So, I'd have to explain that it is only a couple of hours from Puerto Rico, and consists of three major islands: St. Thomas, St. John and St. Croix; as well as close to a hundred small islets and cays. Oh, and that from the pictures I'd seen, it was extraordinarily beautiful.

I had never been to the Caribbean, so my first trip, to the island of St. Thomas a few months later, was highly anticipated.

I get my first impression of the island while still in the air as we come in for a landing. Looking out the window of the MD80, I stare down at the ocean mesmerized by the breathtaking beauty of the impossibly clear, turquoise water.

My later experiences would be that ... no matter how travelled visitors to the Virgin Islands happened to be, they were always amazed at the beauty of the waters and beaches.

My second impression, as I walk down the steps of the airplane to the ground (no Jetway here), is of heat so solid, it is like hitting a wall. It is the kind of heat that immediately generates perspiration (everywhere!); the kind of heat that gives you an urge to disrobe, at least of any extra outer wear.

What makes the heat tolerable and probably saves us all from absolute annihilation are the gentle tradewind breezes.

But, I am soon distracted from the heat by the picturesque beauty of colorful, pastel painted houses strewn across rolling, green hills. I would learn that St. Thomas' nickname is 'The Rock', because of those hills. The islands were formed by volcanic activity and as a result are mountainous and rocky, which makes farming extremely difficult.

Inside the airport travelers are greeted by Steel Pan musicians, and ladies adorned in native costume speaking in lyrical accents as they offer tastes of popular island drinks - especially Fruit Punch - with or without the rum that is made right on the island of St. Croix. Crucian Rum is one of very few products manufactured in the Virgin Islands.

Before I know it, my luggage and I are loaded into a long - thankfully air-conditioned -van (that seats about 15), and we're heading up hills so steep, I bite my lip to keep from crying out as we

seem to travel straight up.

I chance a look out the window and gaze down at the town of Charlotte Amalie below. We had recently passed through the lovely little town with the red-roofed shops on one side of the street and the harbor on the other.

I find it impossible to enjoy the view, however as I notice there is nothing even resembling a guard rail on the side of the road, and one wrong move could send us plunging over the side of the mountain!

I keep my eyes straight ahead until I reach my destination. Of course I would learn it's not as easy as all that to go over the mountain ... but it is indeed possible.

My resort is as they say ... "In the country", which means up from town, and in the mountains. It is a large, older property spread out over many acres of land, and set up like condos. There's the living room with floor to ceiling windows that opens onto a wrap-around balcony that's to die for; a dining area, kitchen, bedroom and bath. It really does look more like a movie set rather than some place I'd be staying.

It's not long before I realize the air conditioning doesn't work, but with all the balcony doors open and the ceiling fans on in every room, it is unbelievably breezy and yes, cool.

Something else I'd learn: most houses aren't air conditioned. Strategically placed ceiling fans, regular fans, windows, proper clothing, and a natural physical resistence to the heat (built up overtime), are the weapons of choice.

Later that evening, after settling in, I am dressed for dinner and waiting for the taxi to take me to the restaurant that I've been told has one of the island's best views, as well as some of the best cuisine on the island.

I walk out onto the balcony and look down at the twinkling lights in the houses all over the valley far below, and it's so beautiful, tears well up in my eyes and threaten to spill over and ruin my make-up. I quickly blink them back as I think, this is indeed paradise.

Suddenly, a small shiver travels up my spine as I feel this trip may turn out to be even more of an adventure than I can imagine.

Just then I hear the taxi give a couple of short bleeps outside.

I shake my head to rid myself of fanciful thoughts, grab my purse, and I'm off to begin the adventure.